Georgia Days: Alpine Escape

 An old Chevy Impala slowly makes its way up the thin, country road.  It stops at each house and then crawls back onto Highway 115.  A closer look reveals why traffic has accumulated on this sparse road; the driver is the mailman. 

You’re not in Atlanta anymore, are you?

The roads of Northeastern Georgia invite city travelers back to a simpler time.  The mountains are your breathtaking backdrops and the only advertising you’ll see along the way are homemade posters for local produce stands.  The Tomato House has enticing signs that tug on your sense of Southern comfort: Homemade fried pies, boiled peanuts, fudge, and homegrown vegetables.  It’s worth pulling over for a moment to savor old memories and support the local economy. When you’re here, it feels as though you have nothing but time. 

Any route  taken for the journey to this part of state is sure to be scenic.  Charming small towns dot the way: Cleveland, Cornelia and Dahlonega are all possible encounters.  Right in the middle of this beautiful country is Helen, a mountain town with a “touch of Bavaria.”

You’ll know when you’ve almost reached Alpine Helen, for there is a unique landmark that has been there for centuries.  Traveling North on Highway 75, look to the right.  Sitting in the middle of a wide, green field and within the shadow of Yonah Mountain is a lone Indian mound.  A tiny white gazebo perches on top, its red roof a crown for the mound. Unforgettably beautiful, the Nacoochee Indian mound is the gateway to Alpine Helen.  

Coasting down a hill, Alpine Helen appears on the banks of the racing Chattahoochee River in all of its cobblestone and gingerbread trim glory. It is a small town, but completely transformed to fit the styles of another country.  Even fast food restaurants are cloaked beneath the charm, flowing with the rest to create a genuine Alpine experience.  It is a tourist destination, but too fun to ignore. 

Bavarian music spills out of “natural” speakers throughout downtown.  Horse-drawn carriages line the cobblestone streets, the drivers sitting with their canine companions as they wait with a smile to convey travelers through the town.  Alpine and local scenes are painted on the sides of buildings.  Shops like the Scandinavian & European Import Company cater to international delights, from Swedish Dala horses to Russian Nesting dolls to German cuckoo clocks.  If you have something specific in mind, The Music Box is filled with whimsical multitudes of its namesake.  The Hansel & Gretel Candy Kitchen is so popular that is has two locations within the tiny town and will satisfy any sweet tooth.  Their chocolate turtles are world famous and free samples are available daily. 

If craving traditional German fare, visit Hofer’s Bakery and Café for samples of the country’s cakes and breads or the highly recommended Hofbrauhaus Inn, which does sling schnitzel (sausage) and spaetzle (pork goulash) well, complete with an ambient outdoor beer garden.  Want a restaurant with a view?  Check out the riverside eats.  Café International sits on a ribbon of the Chattahoochee that runs through Helen and offers food from all over the world with a unique atmosphere. 

While the town is pleasant enough to explore on foot, there are also some quirky and entertaining things to do.  

Although Alpine miniature golf is a classic choice, there is also a bear park, reptile house and tarantula farm.  Tubing on the Chattahoochee River is popular during the summer and during the hot spots of July and August, the river is filled.  Mine for gold at the creek mines, take a thrilling helicopter ride, visit the Antique Auto and Buggy Museum or see an Elvis impersonator at the Remember When Theater. 

Helen is always hosting events and is known for their hot air balloon races in June and the nation’s longest Oktoberfest, spanning from September to November.  Check the calendar to see if there is a Contra dance, garden party, folk festival or the Saturday evening music concert series that runs all summer.  No matter when you visit Helen, the people are always friendly and welcoming.  Some are even willing to tell you their life story.  Bob Schwartzman, owner of the Scandinavian & European Import shop, always spares time to speak with his customers, often relating his favorite aspects of Helen and eager to learn the heritage of the visitors who come to his town.  Ever the charmer, Schwartzman also enjoys telling his famous jokes.  Be sure to stop by, whether it be for a carved clock or Schwartzman, who is sure to make you smile.

Two miles from Helen up Highway 356 is beautiful Unicoi State Park.  Mountains rise up before a glistening lake with a relaxing beach for a simple getaway.  Within the park, you can hike, mountain bike, fish from the docks, rent canoe or pedal boats or stay in one of the cozy cottages.  Unicoi’s Lodge hosts many events all year, from the natural and cultural to the historical and recreational.  The lodge also has a gift shop that sells hand-made quilts and local pottery, which makes for a great souvenir while supporting local artisans.  Surrounding Unicoi and Helen are numerous waterfalls with roads and hiking trails that lead to their varied splendor.  The most unique is Anna Ruby Falls, juxtaposed with Unicoi.  Open all year, the twin falls are a natural wonder to behold and can be accessed easily by a paved footpath.  Also close to Unicoi and the falls is the Sautee Covered Bridge, known as “Georgia’s smallest covered bridge.”  All of these natural sites are filled with captivating history that is just waiting to be shared.

As summer approaches, consider Helen and its natural surroundings for a relaxing daytrip.  Here, you can return to a simpler time and a slower pace while enjoying an Alpine town in your own backyard.